How to DIY solar window sill light?

Solar lights use solar cells made of the principle of photovoltaic effect. During the day, solar panels receive solar radiant energy and convert it into electrical energy for output. In the daytime, even in cloudy days, this solar generator can also collect and store solar energy. As a new safe and environmentally friendly electric light, solar light has attracted more and more attention. When you walk into the house in the dark at night, buy a lamp for your home that does not need to be plugged in and will automatically turn on at night. The warm light is against the green grass and wood on the window sill, which eliminates the need to find the switch in the dark. It’s troublesome, and it can add a lot of atmosphere to the home. When relatives and friends come to the door, they can also blow it by.


6V 100mA or more solar battery
1A lithium battery
Photoresistor sensor template 4 wires
5x7cm Bakelite Hole Board
M3 copper pillar screws
SMD or in-line LED
100Ω resistance


Use an electric soldering iron to firmly solder the LED to the first hole board. This process is more complicated. If you find it troublesome, you can find some ready-made light boards on shopping websites, or even LED boards with constant current drivers. In this case, only three ready-made modules of charging, photosensitive, and LED can be used to complete the entire production.

Prepare several DuPont wires to connect the photosensitive module to the second hole board, which needs to be connected to the power poles and the digital signal output terminal.

After soldering the photosensitive module to the hole board, due to the insufficient output capacity of the module, an additional triode needs to be added to expand the current. If it does not work properly, a 10K pull-up resistor can be added.

At this time, we found that the photosensitive module cannot be directly fixed on the hole plate, so we use a hand drill to make holes and fix them with screws.

When fixing the charging and protection two-in-one board, it was found that it did not even have screw holes, so I had to use foam tape and soldering pin headers to reinforce it, which is more difficult. Of course, you can also use the flying wire directly before using it. The glue sticks.

Place all the components in place, try to hide things like flying leads on the back of the board, and make the front as simple as possible.

Next, start processing the LED board, first use copper pillars to create a space slightly higher than the battery, so that the battery can be fixed in the middle.

Finally, the upper and lower parts are combined, and the main body is almost complete. It can be turned on for testing. Remember to adjust the sensitivity of the photosensitive module to the appropriate level at this time. You can use a desk lamp to test in a curtained room.


You must have at least high school knowledge of physics and electricity, be able to figure out the conversion of series and parallel connections, resistance, voltage, and current, and understand the characteristics of basic semiconductor components such as triodes.
After touching the electric soldering iron, you will use solder wire for some simple drag soldering and wiring connections.
The whole production cost less than 3 dollars.
The milky white acrylic sheet softens the light.

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